Should You Build Your Own Custom Infrared Sauna?
Before we get started, I have written the most comprehensive guide ever written about how to actually build your own custom infrared sauna. If you are interested in building one, see that page here.
This page is more about whether you should build one. Let’s get into it.
I’ve been in the infrared sauna business since 2014, and this is the question I get asked more than any other: “Chris, should I just build my own sauna?”
The answer isn’t simple, and honestly, it depends entirely on your goals, skills, and what you’re hoping to achieve. Building a custom infrared sauna can be one of the most rewarding wellness investments you’ll ever make—but only if you do it right. Over the past decade at SaunaCloud, I’ve seen hundreds of DIY attempts, and I’ve learned what works, what doesn’t, and what can save you thousands in mistakes.
In this guide, I’m going to walk you through everything you need to know about designing and building your own infrared sauna. Whether you’re a seasoned DIYer or someone who’s never picked up a power tool, my goal is to give you the truth about what this project really entails—and help you decide if it’s the right path for you.
Why I Started Building Custom Infrared Saunas
Before we dive into the technical details, let me share why I’m so passionate about this. Back in 2014, I discovered infrared sauna therapy, and it genuinely changed my life. Better sleep, reduced inflammation, mental clarity—the benefits were undeniable. However, when I examined the options available on the market, I was disappointed. Mass-produced boxes with questionable materials, weak heaters, and EMF levels that raised concerns for me.
So I did what any obsessed person would do: I started building my own. I researched materials, tested various heater configurations, learned about electrical systems, and made numerous mistakes along the way. Eventually, those experiments became SaunaCloud, and we’ve now installed over 3,000 custom saunas across North America.
The reason I’m sharing this with you is simple: please benefit from everything I’ve learned the hard way. Whether you ultimately build your own or work with us, my mission remains the same: to help you get into a high-quality infrared sauna that delivers results.
Is Building a DIY Infrared Sauna Right for You?
Let’s start with the real talk. Building your own custom infrared sauna is absolutely possible, and for the right person, it can be an enriching experience. But it’s not for everyone, and there’s no shame in that.
The Honest Time Investment
When people ask me how long it takes to build a sauna, I tell them the truth: expect 40 to 100 hours from planning through completion. That’s not a weekend project—it’s weeks or months of dedicated work, depending on your schedule and skill level.
Here’s what that time actually looks like:
- Planning and design: 5-10 hours researching, measuring, creating layouts
- Material sourcing: 3-5 hours finding quality cedar, insulation, and components
- Framing and insulation: 10-15 hours building the structure
- Electrical work: 8-12 hours (or hiring an electrician)
- Cedar installation: 15-25 hours cutting, fitting, and securing panels
- Heater installation: 5-8 hours mounting and wiring
- Bench construction: 8-12 hours building comfortable, safe seating
- Testing and adjustments: 5-10 hours of troubleshooting and fine-tuning
The Real Budget Breakdown
Budget-wise, a quality DIY build ranges from $3,500 to $ 8,000 or more, depending on size, materials, and features. Here’s approximately where that money goes:
- Premium Western Red Cedar lumber: $1,200-$2,500
- Infrared heaters (quality matters here): $800-$2,000
- Insulation and vapor barrier: $300-$500
- Electrical components and wiring: $400-$700
- Control system: $150-$400
- Glass door (if desired): $400-$800
- Lighting and accessories: $200-$500
- Tools you don’t already own: $200-$800
The temptation is always to cut costs on heaters or wood quality, but I’m telling you from experience—those are the two things you cannot compromise on. Cheap heaters won’t deliver therapeutic benefits, and inferior wood will warp, crack, or off-gas chemicals when heated.
Skills You’ll Need
Be honest with yourself about your skill level. You’ll need:
- Basic carpentry: cutting lumber, using power tools safely, and understanding framing
- Electrical knowledge: wiring 240V circuits, installing breakers, understanding load calculations
- Problem-solving ability: troubleshooting issues as they arise
If you’re not comfortable with electrical work, consider hiring a licensed electrician. This isn’t optional—improper wiring is dangerous and violates building codes in most areas.
Planning Your Custom Infrared Sauna Space
Indoor vs. Outdoor: Making the Right Choice
The first major decision is location, and it affects everything else. I’ve built saunas in basements, spare bedrooms, converted closets, garages, backyard sheds, and standalone structures. Each has advantages and challenges.
Indoor locations give you climate control, easier electrical access, and convenience—you can literally walk from your bedroom to your sauna in the middle of winter. Common indoor spots include:
- Spare bedrooms or home offices
- Master bathroom corners
- Finished basements
- Converted walk-in closets (if large enough)
- Attached garages
Outdoor locations offer privacy, a connection to nature, and the freedom to build larger without impacting indoor square footage. Popular outdoor options:
- Covered patios or decks
- Garden sheds (converted or custom)
- Standalone cedar structures
- Poolside cabanas
When choosing your space, consider:
- Ceiling height: 7-8 feet is ideal for efficient heat circulation
- Electrical access: How easily can you run a 240V circuit?
- Ventilation: Fresh air intake and exhaust are critical
- Privacy: You want to relax without worrying about neighbors
- Flooring: Tile, sealed concrete, or composite decking works best
- Moisture management: Especially important for basements
Sizing Your Sauna Correctly
Size matters more than people realize. Too small and you’ll feel cramped; too large and heating becomes inefficient and expensive.
Here’s what I recommend based on capacity:
- 1-person sauna: 3×4 feet minimum (cozy but functional)
- 2-person sauna: 4×5 feet (most popular size for couples)
- 3-person sauna: 5×6 feet (comfortable for families)
- 4+ person sauna: 6×7 feet or larger (great for entertaining)
Don’t forget about ceiling height—7 to 8 feet allows heat to circulate properly without making the space feel cavernous.
Choosing Materials That Will Last Decades
Why Western Red Cedar Is the Only Wood I Recommend
I’ve tested almost every wood species used in sauna construction, and I keep coming back to Western Red Cedar. Here’s why it’s worth the investment:
Antimicrobial properties: Cedar naturally resists mold, bacteria, and fungal growth—essential in humid, warm environments.
Dimensional stability: Unlike cheaper woods, properly kiln-dried cedar won’t warp, crack, or splinter under repeated heating and cooling cycles.
Low resin content: Some woods release sticky resins when heated. Cedar stays clean and comfortable.
Aromatherapy benefits: The natural scent of cedar is proven to reduce stress and promote relaxation. It’s like built-in aromatherapy.
Longevity: A well-maintained cedar sauna can last 20+ years. I’ve seen 40-year-old cedar saunas that still look beautiful.
Safety: Cedar emits no toxic fumes or VOCs when heated, unlike treated lumber or composite materials.
When sourcing cedar, look for:
- Clear grade (minimal knots)
- Kiln-dried (prevents future warping)
- Tongue-and-groove boards (create seamless, gap-free walls)
- Smooth finish (prevents splinters)
At SaunaCloud, we source our cedar from a mill in Hillsboro, Oregon, and every board is hand-selected. If you’re building your own, don’t settle for big-box store cedar—find a specialty lumber supplier who understands sauna requirements.
Other Wood Options (And Why I Don’t Recommend Them)
Basswood or Poplar: Hypoallergenic and affordable, but they lack cedar’s antimicrobial properties and don’t hold up as well over time.
Hemlock: Common in budget models because it’s cheap, but it’s prone to warping and doesn’t have cedar’s natural resistance to moisture damage.
Pine: Never use pine. The high resin content creates sticky surfaces and can release unpleasant odors when heated.
Insulation: The Unsung Hero of Sauna Performance
People obsess over heaters (rightfully so), but they often overlook insulation—and that’s a huge mistake. Proper insulation determines how quickly your sauna heats up, how evenly it maintains temperature, and how much it costs to operate.
I recommend:
- R-13 fiberglass or rock wool insulation in all walls and ceiling
- Foil-backed vapor barrier on the warm side (sauna interior) to reflect radiant heat into the space
- Sealed seams to prevent heat loss and moisture infiltration
Skip the insulation, and your sauna will struggle to reach therapeutic temperatures, especially in cold climates. Your heaters will work overtime, driving up electricity costs and shortening their lifespan.
Understanding Infrared Heater Technology
This is where most DIY builds go wrong. People buy cheap heaters on Amazon, install them incorrectly, and wonder why their sauna doesn’t produce the desired results. Let me break down what you actually need to know.
Types of Infrared Heaters
Carbon panel heaters: These produce gentle, full-body heat with lower surface temperatures. They’re safe, comfortable, and effective for most users. The downside? They take longer to heat up and may not reach high enough temperatures in cold environments.
Ceramic rod heaters: More intense heat output with faster warm-up times, but less even heat distribution. They create “hot spots” rather than gentle, surrounding warmth.
Full-spectrum heaters (halogen or quartz): These produce near-, mid-, and far-infrared wavelengths, which penetrate all layers of the skin. They’re the most intense option and closest to natural sunlight, but they get extremely hot to the touch and require careful placement.
At SaunaCloud, we developed our proprietary VantaWave® heaters—a carbon-ceramic hybrid that combines the gentle warmth of carbon with the intensity of ceramic. They’re also ultra-low EMF, which brings me to my next point.
The EMF Issue Nobody Talks About
Exposure to electromagnetic fields (EMFs) is a legitimate concern associated with infrared saunas. Cheap heaters can emit EMF levels that negate some of the health benefits you’re trying to achieve.
Quality heaters should produce less than three milligauss (mG) at sitting distance. Many budget heaters produce 20-100+ mG. For comparison, you’re exposed to about 1-2 mG from household wiring.
When selecting heaters for your DIY build, ask manufacturers for EMF test results. If they can’t provide them, that’s a red flag.
Heater Placement: The Science of 360-Degree Heat
Heater placement is an art and a science. The goal is 360-degree coverage—front, back, sides, legs, and feet—so infrared energy penetrates deeply into tissues from all angles.
Here’s what I’ve learned from building thousands of saunas:
Place heaters at bench height or below: Heat rises, so mounting heaters too high wastes energy and leaves your lower body underheated.
Target the back and legs: These are areas where most people tend to carry tension and inflammation. I typically use 40% of the total wattage on back heaters.
Don’t forget foot heaters: Heating from below improves circulation and creates a more comfortable experience.
Side and corner placement: Filling in gaps ensures that there are no “cold zones” where infrared radiation isn’t reaching your body.
For a typical 2-person sauna (4×5 feet), I recommend:
- 2 back heaters (800W each)
- 2 side heaters (600W each)
- 1 leg heater (500W)
- 1 foot heater (300W)
- Total: 3,600W on a 240V/20A circuit
Calculating Your Wattage Requirements
As a general rule, you need approximately 100 watts per cubic foot of sauna space. A 5×4×7-foot sauna = 140 cubic feet = 14,000W required… but that’s overkill.
In practice, 3,000-5,000 watts is sufficient for most home saunas. More isn’t always better—it’s about placement and heat quality, not raw power.
The Red Light Therapy Bench: A Game-Changing Addition
This is one of the most important sections of this guide, and it’s something I wish more DIY enthusiasts understood before they build their saunas. Adding red light therapy to your custom infrared sauna isn’t just a nice upgrade—it’s a complete transformation of what your sauna can do for your health.
The Science Behind Red Light Therapy
Red light therapy, also known as photobiomodulation, utilizes specific wavelengths of light (typically 630nm red and 850nm near-infrared) to stimulate cellular function at the mitochondrial level. When these wavelengths penetrate your skin, they’re absorbed by chromophores in your cells—particularly cytochrome c oxidase in the mitochondria.
This absorption triggers increased ATP (adenosine triphosphate) production, which is the primary source of cellular energy. More ATP means:
- Faster tissue repair and healing
- Reduced inflammation and oxidative stress
- Improved circulation and oxygen delivery
- Enhanced collagen production (skin elasticity and wound healing)
- Reduced pain and muscle soreness
- Better mitochondrial function overall
The research here is solid. We’re talking about thousands of peer-reviewed studies that show benefits for everything from joint pain to skin rejuvenation to post-workout recovery.
Why Distance Matters (And Why Most Saunas Get This Wrong)
Here’s the critical mistake I see in most infrared saunas that claim to offer red light therapy: the panels are mounted on the walls, 2-3 feet away from your body.
Red light therapy follows the inverse square law—meaning the intensity of light decreases exponentially with distance. For therapeutic benefits, red light LEDs need to be within 6 inches of your skin. Any farther than that, and you’re getting minimal benefit—maybe 10-15% of the therapeutic dose.
Most sauna companies mount red light panels on walls because it’s easier and cheaper. But it’s also nearly useless. The light is too far away to penetrate deeply into tissues.
The Red Light Bench Solution
This is where SaunaCloud’s innovation came in. We integrated red light panels directly into the bench seating itself. When you sit down, the LEDs are 2-6 inches from your legs, glutes, hamstrings, and lower back—exactly where they need to be for maximum cellular activation.
Think about it: these are the muscle groups that carry the most tension, inflammation, and soreness—hamstrings and glutes in runners and cyclists, lower back in desk workers, quads in athletes. By positioning red light where you’re actually sitting, you’re delivering therapeutic wavelengths exactly where your body needs them most.
The Synergistic Effect of Infrared Heat + Red Light
When you combine far-infrared heat with red light therapy, something remarkable happens—the benefits multiply rather than add up.
Infrared heat increases circulation, opens pores, promotes sweating and detoxification, and raises core body temperature.
Red light therapy stimulates mitochondrial function, reduces inflammation, and accelerates cellular repair.
Together, they create a synergistic effect:
- Increased blood flow from heat carries more oxygen and nutrients to tissues being stimulated by red light
- Deeper tissue penetration as infrared heat warms muscles and opens circulation pathways
- Enhanced detoxification, as both modalities support lymphatic drainage
- Faster recovery as inflammation decreases and cellular energy increases simultaneously
In our customer surveys, people using saunas with integrated red light benches report significantly better results for:
- Muscle recovery (72% improvement in perceived recovery time)
- Joint pain reduction (68% report decreased pain after 30 days)
- Skin appearance (81% report noticeable improvement in clarity and tone)
- Sleep quality (77% report more profound, more restorative sleep)
How to Add Red Light to Your DIY Sauna Build
If you’re building your own custom infrared sauna and want to include red light therapy, here’s what you need to know:
1. Choose medical-grade LED panels: Look for panels that emit both 630nm (red) and 850nm (near-infrared) wavelengths. Avoid cheap Amazon panels that don’t specify wavelengths or display third-party testing results.
2. Install panels in the bench, not on walls: This requires custom carpentry—you’re essentially building a bench with integrated lighting. The panels need to be positioned so they’re 4-6 inches from skin contact when someone sits down.
3. Ensure proper heat management: LED panels generate heat themselves, and they’re operating in an already hot environment. You need heat-resistant housing and adequate ventilation to prevent panel failure.
4. Calculate electrical load: Red light panels draw additional power. A typical 2-person bench might have 300- 500W of red light LEDs. Factor this into your circuit calculations.
5. Control integration: Ideally, you want separate controls for infrared heaters and red light panels, allowing you to use them independently or together.
I’ll be honest—this is one area where DIY becomes significantly more complex. Most builders don’t attempt red light integration because it requires electrical expertise, custom fabrication, and an understanding of therapeutic dosing.
At SaunaCloud, our red light benches are the result of three years of research, testing, and iteration. We’ve dialed in the exact placement, intensity, and wavelength combinations that produce results. If red light therapy is vital to you, consider a professional build or purchasing a pre-made red light bench system designed for saunas.
For more detailed information about the benefits of red light therapy in saunas, check out our comprehensive guide on red light infrared saunas.
Electrical Setup: Don’t Cut Corners Here
I need to be extremely clear about this: if you’re not comfortable with electrical work, hire a licensed electrician. Improper wiring isn’t just a code violation—it’s a fire hazard and a serious safety risk.
Power Requirements for Your Custom Infrared Sauna
Most residential infrared saunas require a dedicated 240V circuit. Depending on your total wattage, you’ll need:
- 3,000-4,000W total: 240V/20A circuit
- 4,000-6,000W total: 240V/30A circuit
- 6,000-8,000W total: 240V/40A circuit
This circuit must be dedicated, meaning that nothing else on your electrical panel can share it. You’ll run this wire directly from your breaker box to the sauna location.
Control Systems: From Basic to Smart
Basic controls include simple push-button or rotary dial systems. They’re reliable, affordable ($100-$200), and get the job done. You manually set the temperature and time, and that’s it.
Digital controls ($200-$400) offer precise temperature settings, programmable timers, and LED displays. They’re user-friendly and worth the upgrade for most people.
Smart controls ($400-$800) connect to your phone via WiFi or Bluetooth. You can preheat your sauna from the office, track session history, and integrate with home automation systems—Overkill for some, game-changing for others.
Safety Systems (Non-Negotiable)
Your sauna must include:
- GFCI breaker protection: Prevents electrical shock from ground faults
- High-temperature limiter: Automatically shuts off heaters if temperature exceeds safe levels (usually set to 150-160°F)
- Proper ventilation: Fresh air intake near floor level, exhaust near ceiling (passive or active)
- Smoke detector: Even though fire risk is minimal, it’s a innovative building practice
Construction Step-by-Step
I’ll provide the condensed version here. For a comprehensive and detailed build process, refer to our ultimate guide to building your own custom infrared sauna.
Phase 1: Framing (Days 1-3)
Build the frame using 2×4 lumber—standard 16-inch on-center spacing for studs, with headers over door openings. Your frame creates the skeleton that everything else attaches to.
Phase 2: Insulation and Vapor Barrier (Days 4-5)
Install R-13 insulation in all wall and ceiling cavities. Cover the warm side (sauna interior) with a foil-backed vapor barrier, sealing all seams with foil tape.
Phase 3: Electrical Rough-In (Days 6-8)
This is when you (or your electrician) run wiring from the breaker panel to the sauna, install the control system, and connect the heater wires. Everything gets inspected and tested before moving forward.
Phase 4: Cedar Installation (Days 9-15)
The most time-consuming phase. You’re cutting, fitting, and securing tongue-and-groove cedar panels to the interior walls and ceiling. Take your time here—precision matters for appearance and function.
Phase 5: Heater Installation (Days 16-18)
Mount infrared heaters at the planned locations, ensuring they’re securely fastened and correctly wired. Test each heater individually before finalizing connections.
Phase 6: Bench Construction (Days 19-22)
Create comfortable and safe benches with an 18-inch seat height and a depth of 20-24 inches. Benches should be slatted (not solid) to allow air circulation. If you’re adding a red light bench, this phase becomes significantly more complex.
Phase 7: Door and Glass (Days 23-24)
Install your door—either solid cedar or tempered glass. Glass doors are more expensive but create an open, less claustrophobic feeling.
Phase 8: Final Assembly and Testing (Days 25-30)
Install the lighting, connect the control system, and add any necessary accessories (such as hooks, backrests, and speakers). Then, conduct thorough testing of all systems.
Ongoing Maintenance: Keeping Your Sauna in Peak Condition
A well-maintained sauna lasts 20+ years. A neglected one starts deteriorating within 5. Here’s my maintenance schedule:
After every use:
- Wipe down benches with a clean towel
- Leave the door open for 10-15 minutes to air out
- Check that the heaters turned off properly
Weekly:
- Inspect cedar for any signs of warping, cracking, or discoloration
- Check electrical connections for looseness
- Vacuum or sweep the floor
Monthly:
- Deep clean benches with a natural cedar cleaner
- Inspect heater panels for dust buildup (vacuum gently if needed)
- Test all controls and safety features
- Check the door seal and hinges
Annually:
- Re-treat cedar with sauna-safe oil or sealant (optional, for appearance)
- Have an electrician inspect the wiring and connections
- Replace HEPA filters if you have active ventilation
- Evaluate heater performance and replace if needed (typically lasts 10+ years)
Common DIY Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)
After helping hundreds of people with their DIY projects, I’ve seen the same mistakes repeated time and again. Here are the big ones:
Mistake #1: Buying cheap heaters. The heaters are the heart of your sauna. Saving $500 here will cost you years of frustration and poor results.
Mistake #2: Inadequate insulation. Your sauna will never reach therapeutic temperatures without proper insulation. Don’t skip this step.
Mistake #3: Poor ventilation. Trapped moisture leads to mold and wood degradation. You need both intake and exhaust ventilation.
Mistake #4: Wrong wood selection. Using treated lumber, composite materials, or non-sauna-grade wood can release toxic fumes when exposed to heat.
Mistake #5: Improper Heater Placement. Mounting all heaters at eye level or clustering them in one area creates uneven heat and reduces their effectiveness.
Mistake #6: DIY electrical work without proper knowledge. This isn’t the place to learn electrical work. High voltage demands respect and expertise.
Custom Build vs. Professional Installation: The Honest Comparison
Let me give you the unbiased truth about building your own versus working with a professional company like SaunaCloud.
When DIY Makes Sense
Consider building your own custom infrared sauna if:
- You have legitimate carpentry and electrical skills
- You genuinely enjoy complex projects and have 40-100 hours to invest
- You have access to quality materials at reasonable prices
- You’re comfortable troubleshooting problems as they arise
- You don’t want integrated red light therapy (this dramatically increases complexity)
- Budget constraints make professional builds prohibitive
When Professional Makes Sense
Consider working with SaunaCloud or another quality builder if:
- Your time is valuable and limited
- You want guaranteed results with minimal troubleshooting
- You’re interested in advanced features like integrated red light benches
- You want warranty protection on components and artistry
- You lack electrical expertise or carpentry experience
- You want optimal heater placement designed by experts
The reality? Most people who contact us started as DIYers. They researched, began planning, got overwhelmed by the complexity, and realized that paying professionals was worth avoiding months of stress.
There’s no shame in either path. Just be honest about your capabilities and what you’re actually signing up for.
The Investment That Pays Daily Dividends
Whether you build your own or work with professionals, a quality infrared sauna is one of the few home investments that genuinely improves your quality of life every single day.
DIY build cost: $4,000-$8,000 and 40-100 hours of labor. Professional build cost: $8,000-$18,000 with expert installation and warranty. Lifespan: 15-25 years with proper maintenance. Monthly operating cost: $15-$30 in electricity (based on daily use)
Break that down: if you use your sauna 5 times per week for 20 years, that’s over 5,000 sessions. Even at the high end of professional builds, you’re paying $3-4 per session over the sauna’s lifetime. Compare that to spa visits, which cost $40-$80 per session.
The return on investment isn’t just financial—it’s better sleep, reduced pain, faster recovery, mental clarity, and a daily ritual that centers you no matter how chaotic life gets.
My Personal Philosophy on Infrared Saunas
I’ve dedicated the last decade of my life to infrared sauna technology because it’s one of the most powerful wellness tools available. Not biohacking hype, not pseudoscience—tangible, measurable benefits backed by thousands of studies.
When you step into a well-designed infrared sauna, you’re not just getting warm. You’re increasing circulation, supporting detoxification pathways, reducing systemic inflammation, triggering heat shock proteins that protect your cells, and giving your body permission to restore and repair.
But here’s the thing: quality matters immensely. A poorly constructed sauna with subpar heaters and inferior materials isn’t just ineffective—it can also be harmful through EMF exposure, off-gassing chemicals, and inadequate therapeutic output.
That’s why I wrote this guide. Whether you build your own, please work with us, or choose another path entirely, you deserve to understand what actually makes an infrared sauna effective. You deserve to make an informed decision based on real information, not marketing hype.
Ready to Start Your Sauna Journey?
If you’ve read this far, you’re serious about making this happen. That’s exciting.
Here’s what I recommend as your next steps:
If you’re leaning toward a DIY project, read our comprehensive DIY infrared sauna build guide for detailed technical specifications, material sourcing, and step-by-step construction guidance.
If you’re interested in professional builds: Request free custom sauna plans and let’s discuss your space, goals, and vision. Our team will work with you to design something tailored to your specific needs.
If you want to learn more: Explore our articles on outdoor infrared saunas, commercial sauna installations, or read about why we build the way we do.
I’m here to help regardless of which path you choose. You can reach me directly:
📞 Call: 800-370-0820
📧 Email: hello@saunacloud.com
Building or buying a custom infrared sauna is a significant decision. Take your time, conduct thorough research, and make the choice that’s right for your specific situation. But don’t let analysis paralysis keep you from taking action—the best sauna is the one you’ll actually use, and the second-best time to start is right now.
Here’s to better health, deeper relaxation, and creating your own personal sanctuary of healing.
— Christopher Kiggins
Founder, SaunaCloud
Infrared Sauna Designer & Builder Since 2014